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The reauthorized Individuals with Disabilities Education Act (IDEA) was signed into law on Dec. 3, 2004, by President George W. Bush. The provisions of the act became effective on July 1, 2005, with the exception of some of the elements pertaining to the definition of a “highly qualified teacher” that took effect upon the signing of the act. The final regulations were published on August 14, 2006. This is one in a series of documents, prepared by the Office of Special Education and Rehabilitative Services (OSERS) in the U.S. Department of Education, that covers a variety of high-interest topics and brings together the statutory language related to those topics to support constituents in preparing to implement the new requirements.1 This document addresses statutory and final regulatory requirements regarding NIMAS.
“Specialized formats” has the meaning given that term in section 674(e)(3)(D) of the Act (“Specialized formats” means Braille, audio, or digital text which is exclusively for use by blind or other persons with disabilities; and with respect to print instructional materials, includes large print formats when such materials are distributed exclusively for use by blind or other persons with disabilities).
The statute defines “print instructional materials” to be printed textbooks and related printed core materials that are written and published primarily for use in elementary school and secondary school instruction and are required by a SEA or LEA for use by students in the classroom.
“Blind persons or other persons with print disabilities” means children served under Part 300 who may qualify to receive books and other publications produced in specialized formats in accordance with the Act entitled “An Act to Provide Books for the Adult Blind,” approved March 3, 1931, 2 U.S.C. 135a.
Establish a State definition of “timely manner” for purposes of 34 CFR 300.172 (b)(2) and (b)(3) if the State is not coordinating with the NIMAC or 34 CFR 300.172 (b)(3) and (c)(2) if the State is coordinating with the NIMAC.
2 The Library of Congress regulations (36 CFR 701.6(b)(1)) related to the act to Provide Books for the Adult Blind (approved March 3, 1931, 2 U.S.C. 135a) provide that “blind persons or other persons with print disabilities” include: (i) Blind persons whose visual acuity, as determined by competent authority, is 20/200 or less in the better eye with correcting glasses, or whose widest diameter if visual field subtends an angular distance no greater than 20 degrees; (ii) Persons whose visual disability, with correction and regardless of optical measurement, is certified by competent authority as preventing the reading of standard printed material; (iii) Persons certified by competent authority as unable to read or unable to use standard printed material as a result of physical limitations; and (iv) Persons certified by competent authority as having a reading disability resulting from organic dysfunction and of sufficient severity to prevent their reading printed material in a normal manner. Competent authority is defined in 36 CFR 701.6(b)(2) as follows: (i) In cases of blindness, visual disability, or physical limitations “competent authority” is defined to include doctors of medicine, doctors of osteopathy, ophthalmologists, optometrists, registered nurses, therapists, professional staff of hospitals, institutions, and public or welfare agencies (e.g., social workers, case workers, counselors, rehabilitation teachers, and superintendents); and (ii) In the case of a reading disability from organic dysfunction, competent authority is defined as doctors of medicine who may consult with colleagues in associated disciplines.


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Notes: Creating variables in our HTHUD class that are assignable through our .ini configuration files so our end-users can tweak our game settings to their liking.
This added keyword "config" to our class declaration allows us to define a configuration file to use to initialize some of the variables in our class. To point to a configuration file, the name of the configuration file must be specified in the parentheses after "config". It is advisable to first check your configuration directory (UDKUTGameConfig) for a configuration file that matches your purpose; i.e. DefaultUI.ini for HUD related purposes. You must specify the configuration file name without the Default or UT prefix.
Any configuration files prefixed with Default correspond to the default assignments of variables that will ship with every copy of your game. These are the settings that will be used before the end-user is able to tweak any of them. UTConfig files are configuration files that the end-user will have access to, and they override the DefaultConfig files. During development, you should always only edit the DefaultConfig files and delete the UTConfig files when changes are made as this ensures all your changes will be propagated to your end-users initial copy and that during testing you will use configurations you've made instead of accidentally using an old configuration setup declared in the UTConfig files.
This code block declares some variables for us to use. WhiteColor, RedColor, and GreenColor are already declared in HUD, but I figured that it would be nice to add some more variables with cached colors for us to use in the future and to use for this example. Also note that we can declare multiple variables of the same type on one line separated by commas. There is nothing new here except for the config keyword, which tells Unreal to not use DefaultProperties for initialization but to look in the config file we specified when we declared our class. In fact, if you try assigning these variables values in DefaultProperties, you will get warnings saying that you can not.
We will use CrosshairColor and CrosshairShadowColor in the next tutorial. Also, bDrawColorPalette is a variable I created to control whether or not to draw some test rectangles with the colors of our new variables, just for the purpose of this tutorial.
This should all look very familiar if you have followed HTHUD Part 1. Note that instead of storing coordinates of a texture that I'm drawing in a variable, I simply hard-coded them in here. The texture I am drawing is a 40x40 white square that I've put on the same texture sheet as our ammo display texture. Also note ColorToLinearColor. I went over the difference between Color and LinearColor in HTHUD Part 1 as well, but because our variables are stored as Color and DrawColorizedTile requires a LinearColor, we must convert from Color to LinearColor. Epic has provided us a function that does just that, conveniently named ColorToLinearColor.
For example purposes, I have shown how to draw a rectangle without a texture. This is what you should do if all you are is drawing a rectangle. To use Canvas' DrawRect function, you simply set your position as usual, set your DrawColor, and then call DrawRect with the size of the desired rectangle. Really simple.
The last to lines of that snippet being my addition. Note that there are no curly brackets after the if statement. We can do this as this signifies that the if statement only controls code flow for the next statement and the next statement only, which is the only thing we need to control with this conditional. It would also be a wise move to put this within the previous if(bShowGameHUD) block so that it will not draw if our HUD is disabled, but that is completely up to you.
From there, the syntax is identical to how we would format a defaultproperties box. (We would format arrays differently in some cases, but that's for a future tutorial) While this is the same syntax, the fact that it is now in a configuration file instead of a .uc file means our end-user can change these settings without recompiling the code. Our end-user should not be recompiling our code, so this provides them of a safe way to do so. Also if they mess up their UTConfig file, the engine will automatically generate another based off of our DefaultConfig files. Remember to delete your UTConfig files when you make changes to a DefaultConfig file, so you know that your changes are being used.

industry_corpus2: Gaming


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Last week one of my beloved cats died. I haven’t blogged about it until now because I was feeling too upset to type the post, but now I feel I should even though it is still hard to find the words.
Both of my cats were nearly 14 years old. They were twins – found as kittens abandoned in a cardboard box. At least I know that by giving them a home they had many more happy years of life than they might have done - and one of them is still very much alive.
They always got on well together too, and the surviving twin seems to miss his brother very much. Although they had occasional scraps over who was going to get prime position on a cushion or whatever, they used to sit next to each other on my garden wall, groomed each other and would curl up happily to sleep together when the weather was cold.
About a month ago, one of them started to lose weight. I took him to the vet, who ran lots of tests that were inconclusive – but he did feel a lump in his belly that he suspected was a tumour. We discussed all the options, but decided against an operation as the vet felt that it would cause my cat more suffering than was necessary and the chances of success were not high.
He gave my cat injections to try to keep him as comfortable as possible, but by the middle of last week my cat was so weak and thin we took the decision to end his life quickly and painlessly. He died in my arms and I buried him in my garden with a small cairn of rocks over his grave.
I also did a short requiem rite, lighting a candle for him and placing it in my cauldron, then saying a few words to wish him safe passage into whatever might lie beyond the veil of life. Around the cauldron I placed one of his favourite toys, a small cat ornament that a fellow witch had given me as a gift, and a beautiful cat meditation ball that I had bought at Witchfest specifically as memorial for my beloved feline friend.
The big dilemmas I faced were whether to aggressively treat the tumour, and then whether it was right to end his life earlier than a natural death. Of course, if he had been human, there would have been operations and chemotherapy. There most definitely would not have been euthanasia, even if the suffering human with a terminal condition wanted to choose when to end their life. But which course of action is the right one?
When a pet is old and ill and doesn’t have much longer to live we often say it is kindest to put them out of their misery, but we can’t easily ask their permission. When a human is dying we do everything we can to preserve life to the bitter, natural end – even if they are in a coma, definitely not going to recover and have previously stated they would prefer to die in that circumstance.
I don’t know what the answer is – and although my feeling is that I did the best thing for my beloved companion, I can’t be sure. I also know my doubts about my choices do not make my grieving any easier.
Please accept my condolences. I too have struggled with some of the things you've written about here. I lost both my two within 10 months of each other. The last being this past July. It's never an easy decision, even when you think it's for the best.
Thanks very much for your message of sympathy. Condolences to you too, for the loss of your pets.
I'd like to offer my sympathy as well. These are very difficult questions and I don't have the answers. However. I do believe that being freed from the pain of a terminal illness isn't a bad thing.
If you were terminally ill, weak and frail, what would you choose?
I think I would want to step out of suffering and go beyond the veil of life.
My deepest sympathy on the loss of your cat.

industry_corpus2: Agriculture & Fisheries


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Each month, hundreds of agent owners accomplish the expedition to Illinois Tollway address in Downers Grove or buzz the tollway’s active chump annual centermost to accomplish their case adjoin assessment violations and fines for which they accept they are not accurately responsible, assessment ascendancy admiral say.
It can be a continued and arresting action that wastes time, elevates claret pressures and fosters accessible ill will against the Illinois State Assessment Highway Authority.
Now, there is a bigger and abundant easier way to claiming assessment violations that for a cardinal of affirmation tollway barter should not be appropriate to pay. Those affirmation accommodate a agent awash or baseborn afore the violations occurred, or a agent that was the albatross of an ex-spouse at the time of the violations.
Starting Monday, tollway barter can claiming assessment violations online at illinoistollway.com.
It’s the aboriginal time the assessment ascendancy has acutely authentic the affairs in which battling a assessment abuse is acceptable, tollway controlling administrator Kristi Lafleur said.
The action involves downloading a anatomy and commitment the completed, active anatomy and appropriate affirmation to the assessment authority. The assessment ascendancy will acknowledge with a decision, via mail, in about two weeks, Lafleur said.
The form, alleged an affirmation of dispensation for toll, lists seven affirmation that agent owners can altercation violations, or they can annual and call an added reason.
The agent was awash and in control of a new buyer back the abuse occurred; the agent was baseborn and not in the owner’s control back the abuse occurred; the buyer was afar and the ex-spouse was amenable for the agent at the time the abuse occurred; the registered agent buyer is dead; the abuse was accustomed back the agent buyer was application a backup I-PASS transponder; the abuse was beatific to addition who is not the registered agent owner; and the agent was repossessed and in the aegis of the acknowledgment aggregation back the abuse occurred.
The best accepted affirmation that drivers altercation assessment violations are incorrect registered agent owner, accounting for about 93 percent of challenges anniversary month; and that the agent had been awash afore the violation, about 3 percent, tollway backer Wendy Abrams said.
Divorce, baseborn vehicle, acknowledgment and afterlife of the registered buyer anniversary annual for 1 percent of the absolute account challenges on average, she said.
A vehicle’s registered buyer or owners accept a apprehension afterwards three assessment violations accept occurred in a two-year period. There is a 21-day borderline to pay the tolls and fines, appeal a audition or claiming the violation.
Individuals who claiming violations can now do so anon online. Questions about the affirmation of dispensation for assessment anatomy can be answered at 800-824-7277, admiral said.
To auspiciously claiming a abuse and accept the amount bound quickly, it’s important to arise the claiming afore the due date listed on a additional notice, which is the final adjustment of liability, admiral said. In cases area the assessment ascendancy rejects the challenge, agent owners may be adequate to agenda an authoritative hearing.
Documentation appropriate with the claiming anatomy is spelled out on the tollway website. For example, if the agent was awash afore the assessment violation, a archetype of the bill of auction or a affidavit of agent appellation alteration would be acceptable. Likewise, a archetype of a badge address or an allowance annexation adjustment address would aggregate affidavit of a baseborn vehicle; or a cloister adjustment or annulment decree appointment buying of the agent in the case of a divorce.
In the case of a afterlife of a registered owner, a archetype of the afterlife affidavit would be required. However, if there are two registered owners listed for the vehicle, the additional buyer would still be accountable for the violation, tollway admiral said.
In 2012, assessment capital collections are estimated at $923 million, according to the assessment authority. Abuse administration is accepted to add $40 million, bringing the year’s absolute to $963 million, or 99 percent of abeyant assessment revenue, admiral said.
Contact Getting Around at [email protected] or c/o the Chicago Tribune, 435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, IL 60611; on Twitter @jhilkevitch; and at facebook.com/jhilkevitch. Read contempo columns at chicagotribune.com/gettingaround.

industry_corpus2: Law & Justice


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GTPay Woocommerce payment gateway allows you to accept payment on your Woocommerce powered store using Guaranty Trust Bank (GTB) GTPay payment gateway.
Accept payment using GTB Internet banking transfer.
100% compliance with GTB User Acceptance Test (UAT).
I will help out with the User Acceptance Test (UAT).

industry_corpus2: Computing & Telecommunications


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Run Jen Run: I signed up for the Cape Cod Beer Race to the Pint!
I signed up for the Cape Cod Beer Race to the Pint!
A Saturday afternoon 10k on the Cape that starts and finishes at a brewery?
In its first annual race, the Cape Cod Beer Race to the Pint offers a 5k and a 10k race with free beer (or wine!) for all runners of age. The post race party features food from Not Your Average Joes, food trucks and a fun, local band—57 Heavy.
I’m actually pretty excited for its 4pm start time and to race the 10k distance. (The last 10k I ran was the Tufts 10k for Women in 2014.) For me the race falls about a month before the Buffalo Half Marathon and on a weekend I was supposed to run 6 miles for my long run. It will be a good test of my fitness and the post-race party should be a good time.

industry_corpus2: Sports


text: For over 20 years Limo Pros has been at the forefront of offering ground transportation alternatives to the consumers. Our mission was to provide an internet web alternative where the local ground transportation provider could afford to compete. So we developed a engine that allows the chauffeur and his vehicle to offer his services for pennies a day on a BIG PLATFORM LimoPros.com. Because our cost are low our affiliates are able to provide any service for less. Our affiliates must provide professionalism and courtesy service to Foxboro, Attleboro, Braintree, Bridgewater, Brockton, Dedham, Easton, Framingham, Franklin, Hopkinton, Manfield, Milford, Milton, Natick, Needham, Newton, Norwood, Providence, Providence, Quincy, Randolph, Rockland, Stoughton, Taunton, Wellesley, Westwood, Weymouth, Weymouth, Attleboro, Braintree, Bridgewater, Brockton, Dedham, Easton, Framingham, Franklin, Hopkinton, Manfield, Milford, Milton, Natick, Needham, Newton, Norwood, Providence, Providence, Quincy, Randolph, Rockland, Stoughton, Taunton, Wellesley, Westwood, Weymouth, Weymouth, Attleboro, Braintree, Bridgewater, Brockton, Dedham, Easton, Framingham, Franklin, Hopkinton, Manfield, Milford, Milton, Natick, Needham, Newton, Norwood, Providence, Providence, Quincy, Randolph, Rockland, Stoughton, Taunton, Wellesley, Westwood, Weymouth, Weymouth, Attleboro, Braintree, Bridgewater, Brockton, Dedham, Easton, Framingham, Franklin, Hopkinton, Manfield, Milford, Milton, Natick, Needham, Newton, Norwood, Providence, Providence, Quincy, Randolph, Rockland, Stoughton, Taunton, Wellesley, Westwood, Weymouth, Weymouth, Attleboro, Braintree, Bridgewater, Brockton, Dedham, Easton, Framingham, Franklin, Hopkinton, Manfield, Milford, Milton, Natick, Needham, Newton, Norwood, Providence, Providence, Quincy, Randolph, Rockland, Stoughton, Taunton, Wellesley, Westwood, Weymouth, Weymouth and Norwood, Norwood to be retained in our database. Limo Pros affiliates in Foxboro, Massachusetts and surrounding area offers a variety of cars: Lincoln Towncars, Sedans, SUV's, Limousines, Stretch Limousine’s, Mercedes Benz S Class, Crystal Limousines, Vans, Mini-Buses, Coach Buses, and even party buses!

industry_corpus2: Transportation


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After reviewing over 50 manufacturers we finally sell only the best rated CBD products. The authorities doesn’t govern CBD oil for sale like it modulates pharmaceutical products, so it is clear that some may be concerned about finding valid CBD oil, or hemp oil for sale. You understand you’ve discovered a Superior CBD merchandise if these five badges exist: This has to be alarming for persons searching for CBD oils for sale.
Just like our site, there are many internet retailers that offer CBD oil available for purchase. CBD oil is for sale many places, if you’re looking for the highest quality CBD oil for sale you should check out our list of CBD products here. Alternatively, you can purchase CBD oil out of brick and mortar stores also but there aren’t many to choose from.
As someone searching for CBD oil online, then you ‘ll be concerned about the price, quality, safety, efficiency and value for your buck for CBD oil. The great news is that you can expect a wider number of choices if you purchase CBD petroleum online. You desire the confidence to make the right purchase considering what’s at stake. You should concurrently do the research to discover which brands create the products to satisfy your needs. Get educated so which you can buy CBD oil online with no worries.
Hemp CBD petroleum and normal hemp oil, that you can buy in the supermarket, aren’t the identical thing. CBD oil contains significant amounts of compounds important to human health so knowing the ingredients is your very first step to purchasing CBD oil. It might be simple to be duped when attempting to get CBD oil online. Now you have to know what to look for when purchasing CBD oil online.
CBD oil doesn’t come from hemp seed oil instead it comes in the stalks of industrial hemp plants which are intentionally grown because they have a greater concentration of CBD. You would like to be aware of the concentration of CBD oil in the product, whether there aren’t any additives at the CBD oil or hemp how to get CBD oil in Tucson oil, the type of product best suited to your requirements (for instance, choosing between a capsule or topical) and also the standing of the manufacturer. Hemp seed oil is used for various purposes and doesn’t alone have the valuable elements of CBD oil. Don’t worry, we make purchasing CBD oil easy because we’ve done all of the hard work for you. So when you purchase hemp oil expecting to find the CBD benefits, pay careful attention to the CBD concentration.
After reviewing over 50 manufacturers we currently sell only the highest rated CBD products. Among the greatest ways to ensure you are purchasing a fantastic supply of CBD petroleum is to discover a web site which publishes reviews of goods. You know you’ve found a Superior CBD product when these five badges exist: The website must offer objective reviews of dozens of goods, not only three or two which may likewise be generated by the company that owns the website.
The same as our website, there are lots of online retailers that offer CBD oil for purchase.

industry_corpus2: Biopharmaceuticals


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Joe Hargrave speaks to supporters during the 2016 election campaign. Herald file photo.
Saskatchewan Government Insurance (SGI) trumpeted its expanding services and $35.8 million dividend payout in its annual report, released Thursday.
SGI’s competitive arm, SGI Canada, outperformed the Canadian insurance market on several metrics, while the Auto Fund wrote over $900 million in gross premiums.
The Auto Fund is administered by SGI, and is self-sustaining, operating on a break-even basis over time. It doesn’t receive money from, nor does it pay dividends to, the provincial government.
The Auto Fund made $162.8 million in investment earnings and saw a 1.3 per cent decrease in claims incurred.
During the 2017-18 fiscal year, the Auto Fund was able to add $210.1 million to the Rate Stabilization Reserve, which acts as a cushion protecting costumers from severe rate increases when an influx of claims comes in, whether due to a storm or a downturn in markets.
The other arm of SGI, SGI Canada, which offers insurance in Saskatchewan, Alberta, BC, Manitoba and Ontario, also had a solid year, posting a $59.4 million profit and boasting an 8.7 per cent premium growth, outperforming the industry’s three per cent average. That growth occurred both inside and outside Saskatchewan.
SGI Canada also managed a 15.8 per cent return on equity after tax, well ahead of the eight per cent industry average.
About 35 per cent of all of the $802.8 million in premiums written came from outside Saskatchewan. The $35.8 million dividend was 60 per cent of its net income.
SGI Canada’s combined ratio was 98.5 per cent. A number below 100 per cent indicates an underwriting profit. The Crown corporation is aiming for a ratio of 96.3 per cent for 2018-19.
“The company is on track to continue its growth trajectory, gaining customers and partnering with brokers throughout the country,” said Minister Responsible Joe Hargrave in a written statement.
SGI has an internal goal of $1 billion in direct premiums written by 2020. A chunk of that growth will come from premiums written outside of Saskatchewan. In 2017, SGI Canada began selling personal property and auto insurance in Ontario. It also launched its farm business unit. The Crown corporation hopes to see growth from both of those sectors going forward.
The growing business outside of Saskatchewan is important in keeping the Crown sustainable, its president and CEO wrote.
Those escalating weather events made an impact in the 2017-18 fiscal year.
“Storm costs have been extremely high in the last four years, with estimated net storm costs being greater than $50 million, compared with the 10-year average of 34.7 million,” the report said.
That was especially true in British Columbia, where the loss ratio increased from 88.6 per cent last year to 121.2 per cent this year due to an increase in claim volumes, including catastrophic claims from wildfire. B.C. had $1.9 million in catastrophic claims, compared to none the year prior.
However, it is seeing growing numbers of disaster claims in Alberta as more people buy SGI-written insurance.

industry_corpus2: Finance & Economics


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Once a reservation is made, the guest has entered into a binding contract with Chiyoda Inn and these terms and conditions apply in full. Where a company, agency or similar has made the booking on behalf of the guest, the agreement is with that third party. Third parties should ensure that the guests are aware of these terms and conditions.
Chiyoda Inn undertakes to provide guest accommodation in the room(s) and dates agreed in the reservation.
You can check in at Chiyoda Inn from 4:00 pm. If however your room is not ready you are welcome to collect your keys and leave your luggage. Please let us have your time of arrival so that we are here to welcome you. We ask that your room is vacated by 11:00 am.
Your booking is as contracted for the number of nights and people. You are not allowed to have additional people staying in the room over and above the number contracted (i.e. you cannot have 2 people sleeping in a single room) without prior agreement. Chiyoda Inn reserves the right to charge the full rate for any such unauthorised stay and/or to terminate the booking. In this eventuality, we will levy a charge of 75% of the agreed booking fee for any unused nights.
All cancellations of accommodation must be given at least 2 days prior to your arrival date, thereafter a full charge will be made for the first night. We also reserve the right to charge for 75% of booked value for consecutive nights if we are unable to resell your room. We reserve the right to charge for unused nights in the event of an early departure.
Chiyoda Inn is unable to accommodate children under the age of 8.
Please remember that you are sharing Chiyoda Inn, a renovated old Japanese two-story house, with other guests – please behave accordingly. Please be aware of fellow guests if coming in very late or leaving early from the Inn, and when watching TV or playing music. We reserve the right to terminate bookings if faced with unreasonable or anti-social behavior.
We do not tolerate racist, sexist, homophobic or otherwise discriminatory language or behaviour and we reserve the right to terminate a booking on receipt of a complaint. Please contact the receptionist as soon as possible if you have an issue with the behavior of a fellow guest.
When you book, Chiyoda Inn takes your card details to confirm the booking but the full amount is payable on checking-in except bookings made within one day of your arrival. We charge the first night’s accommodation fee as a deposit for bookings made within one day of arrival. We accept most cards, cash, and can arrange for invoicing for long-term customers on request. For bookings whose value exceeds ¥50,000, we reserve the right to request or take a non-refundable 10% deposit. The balance is payable after checking-in in the normal way.
In the event of a complaint, we will investigate and respond in a timely and courteous manner. Where appropriate, we will make immediate amends.
Chiyoda Inn is strictly no smoking accommodation. A standard cleaning charge of ¥3,000 per night will be levied on guests who smoke in their rooms.
We reserve the right to charge guests the cost of rectifying damage, caused by the deliberate, negligent or reckless act of the guest to Chiyoda Inn’s property or structure. Should this damage come to light after the guest has departed, we reserve the right to make a charge to the guest’s credit or debit card, or send an invoice for the amount to the registered address. We will however make every effort to keep any costs that the guest would incur to a minimum.
We reserve the right to charge guests the cost of replacing any items that are removed from the premises by them without consent. The charge will be the full replacement amount of the missing item, including any carriage charges. Should the fact that the item is missing come to light after the guest has departed, we reserve the right to make a charge to the guest’s credit or debit card, or send an invoice for the amount to the registered address.
We reserve the right to take action against any guest found to have tampered or interfered with any fire detection equipment throughout the Chiyoda Inn.
Replacement keys is charged at ¥3,000.
We will use our best efforts to return any items left behind by a guest after their stay, but reserve the right to recoup any costs incurred by Chiyoda Inn.
For the comfort of other guests, Chiyoda Inn does not allow pets. If you have a registered assistance dog, please inform us prior to booking.
Chiyoda Inn expect your room and the front door of the property to be closed at all times. We request that all guests follow this safety and security measure. We reserve the right to refuse admission and exclude visitors from our accommodation.
A Registration Card must be completed by all guests on arrival with passport numbers for overseas visitors. We reserve the right to take a photocopy of passport of overseas visitors.
Chiyoda Inn retains your contact details as an integral part of the booking process. We are required to retain your registration for (at least) 3 years. We may contact you in the future with a newsletter, but you can opt out at any time. We will not share your information in any other way with any third party.
We are registered with the Arakawa-ku Health Department, reference “22荒保衛環き（三）第7号”.
Chiyoda Inn will compensate the guest for damage if we have caused such damage to the guest. However, the same will not apply in cases where such damage is due to reasons for which we are not liable.
b) is limited to ¥10,000 for any one article and a total of ¥50,000 in the case of any one guest, except in the case of property which has been deposited, or offered for deposit, for safe custody.
Chiyoda Inn is covered by hotel liability insurance in order to deal with unexpected fires and / or other disasters.

industry_corpus2: Hospitality & Catering


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Tupelo, Mississippi. It’s the home of Elvis Presley, but even for those clued in on that fun fact, it’s safe to say that few, if any, know much more about the city. Nestled in the northeast corner of the Magnolia State, and with a population of just over 35,000, indeed, Tupelo, like most small metropolises, is easy to overlook. Rae Sremmurd - pronounced "Ray-Shrim-er," consisting of real life brothers Slim Jxmmi and Swae Lee, the first act signed to multi-platinum producer Mike WiLL Made-It’s Ear Drummer Records - is out to change that.
The movement started locally, with the brothers throwing parties and shows around town, often in the same abandoned buildings where they once stayed. The pair always had larger ambitions, though, and so the brothers, natural performers since elementary school, taught themselves how to record, make beats, and DJ, building enough buzz to earn an appearance on the popular “Wild Out Wednesdays” segment during BET’s music video countdown show, 106th & Park. Back home, Lee and Jxmmi earned the attention of fellow Tupelo native P-Nazty, who also happens to be a producer signed to super producer Mike WiLL Made-It’s Eardrummers Entertainment production team. P-Nazty introduced Rae Sremmurd to Mike WiLL, and the multi-platinum producer (Rihanna, Jay Z, Kanye West, 2 Chainz, Future, Juicy J) was instantly impressed by the brothers’ energy and the quality of their music, signing the duo to his label, Ear Drummer Records. “When I met them,” recalls WiLL, “they just had a real young dope energy about them. So me and the Ear Drummer team locked in the studio like we normally do, had a lot of fun, and cooked up some amazing music. This is just the beginning of our working relationship, and they’ve got a bright future. I believe in them."

industry_corpus2: Film & Entertainment


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When the game is complete, it will be a series of installments where players must solve clues to stop a serial killer. The test version is a prelude to demonstrate the type of puzzles in the actual game, which will be far more in-depth.
What stands out as different with this game (as opposed to the traditional escape room experience) is that not only are computers and phones allowed—they are necessary. Before you begin the game, you are instructed to visit a website that plays atmospheric music to set the tone and has a clock to track your progress, as well as links for hints when you need help. The game is unique in how it combines a tactile experience with a virtual one by using physical props to point you to websites and online videos. This is interesting, although, there were big chunks of the game spent just searching around the internet for clues. From the photos of the full game, it is clear that there will be many more physical pieces, so this should not be a problem in the actual release.
Despite only having the trial version, the game was very difficult. All of us who played were experienced at escape rooms, and we found it tough. I feel I must mention that one of the reasons it was so difficult was that one of the props was not included in the set. We only discovered that it was absent after getting stuck and looking up hints. By that point, we were too far into the game to do anything about it, but, hopefully, the final version will include a list of contents with the box.
The full version should be available soon, but, for now, you can support the Kickstarter.


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The Oscars sputtered out after only two years, the Grammys are of course fictional, and the Stanley Cup has yet to be awarded to anybody. That means that with the Third Annual Saxxy Awards, we will officially be the longest-running awards event of all time. Help us make history by voting, from now until midnight PST on November 24th!
And if voting wasn't exciting enough, how does sending people to jail sound? Because that's what you'll be doing by helping us police the entries for following the rules. Filmmakers will rot in jail on your say-so! In fact, the lawyers tell us they've updated the SFM license to also include an ancillary license to kill! And hold on, there's even more late-breaking news, because the lawyers are now telling us--are in fact typing this right now--that the SFM does not grant you the right to kill and you can't send anybody to jail. Okay, the lawyers stopped typing. I know we're all pretty angry about this turn of events, but we still do need your help checking entries for rule-breaking.
If you've submitted a video, note that we've extended the deadline to add contributors to your submission until the end of voting Sunday night at midnight PST, so if you haven't finalized your contributors yet, do it now! While you're at it, you'll want to remove any YouTube ads from your submissions - videos with ads aren't eligible for nomination.
Nominees will be revealed on November 25th and the winners of this year's Saxxy Awards will be revealed on November 26th, so get voting!


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Make sure the mulch isn't actually damaging your plants, trees.
The most popular practice for water conservation that protects existing gardens, especially in areas with low moisture, is to mulch. It's adding a layer of organic material around each plant to reduce surface soil evaporation rates. That layer also shades the soil so it and the roots remain cool on the hottest days. Mulches also prevent pernicious grasses and weeds from sprouting where they compete with our landscape plants for irrigation. In times of too little rain, mulching is one of the few measures we have to reduce its effect on our expensive plants.
Sometimes too much of a good thing can go bad, and a variety of problems can accompany mulching. Homeowners' best efforts can be undone if these aren't considered in advance. It's not just laying out mulch, it's thinking how to lay it out properly beforehand.
Landscapers and farmers know this is an age-old practice learned from trial and error. They made mistakes, learned their lessons and moved on with new knowledge. To help you avoid this trial-and-error process, and the potential losses that accompany mulching, here's the other side of the story.
Mostly woody trees, shrubs and vines are vulnerable to having earth to bark contact above the base of the trunk. This causes the bark to die in a ring, exposing the vital cambium layer to death and disconnecting root from shoot. Without this free exchange, the plant dies.
Crown rot most often occurs when these woodies are planted too deep, or when soil is mounded up around the base of the trunk. When mulch is mounded up against these same woody plant stems, crown rot occurs there as well. The rule of thumb is to leave at least an inch or more free of mulch at the base of all stems and trunks. Periodically inspect the plants to make sure mulch hasn't shifted up against one side. This will cause partial loss of the cambium where there's contact.
Most mulches are composed of green waste ground to uniform size and density. Those for landscaping are most often woody chips and forest byproducts that are attractive and organic in origin. When you mulch around plants, the effect of lighter rains can be lost as drops soak into the very dry surface material. Little to none reaches the soil underneath and none to roots unless it's a soaking rain. Mulched plants may be dry as a bone in the root zone due to thick mulches above.
When drip irrigation emitters are located within or underneath heavy mulch layers, you'd think every drop would be protected there. Truth is after a long dry period, coir, pine needles, wood chips and any other organic material will be tinder dry. This makes it potentially more absorptive than the soil underneath. Emitters in and under mulch can have much of their delivery wicked up into the mulch. So while your drip system is working away, the plant isn't getting water, only the mulch is. If you don't catch this before big heat comes, the plant dies.
The origins of mulch can be problematic too if it's predominately walnut and other trees that exude chemicals such as tannin to prevent competition. With herbicides modeled on these natural plant toxins, having wood from such trees in your mulches may have unexpected results.
As with all things in life, solutions in gardening are not as simple as they appear. Make one change to solve a problem and a new one crops up. Mulching is important to protect your landscape from drought, if you do it properly. If not, your effort to solve one problem may result in three more.


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1. Preheat oven to 175˚F/80˚C.
2. In a food processor or blender, puree kiwi, spinach, honey and Sun Chlorella. Blend it about 2-3 mintues.
3. On a baking sheet lined with silicone mat or parchment paper, pour the puree and spread evenly over the paper, being careful not to let it spill over the edges.
4. Bake for 5-6 hours, or until it is mostly dehydrated and is no longer sticky. (This may take up to 6 hours depending on the oven.) It is done when it has a bendable, leathery texture.
5. Cool completely and cut into strips, leaving the parchment paper attached.
6. Roll each strip up and tie with a ribbon or twine. Store in airtight jar.
2. Mix together the coconut, organic rice syrup, Sun Chlorella and coconut oil in a large bowl.
3. Shape the mixture into balls with your fingers, press firmly, and place each one on a lined baking tray.
4. Pop in the freezer to harden up for 30 minutes.
5. Melt the dark chocolate in a bowl over a saucepan of water.
6. Dip each coconut ball into the chocolate, coating fully. Place them on a wire rack to set. Garnish with shredded coconut. Pop in the freezer to harden up for 30 minutes.


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Formaat: 19.8 (h) x 15.6 (b) x 1.3 (d) cm. Gewicht: 229 gram.
Anti-apartheid revolutionary, politician and philanthropist, Nelson Mandela's journey from political prisoner to president of South Africa is an incredible tale of triumph in the face of adversity. 2018 marks a hundred years since his birth.

industry_corpus2: Politics & Administration


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2018: A two-year letterwinner ... will compete for playing time at setter.
2017: Played in 19 matches and 42 sets during her sophomore campaign ... recorded 144 assists, 55 digs, 11 service aces, one kill and one block ... totaled a season-high 31 assists in a 3-1 victory over Virginia Wesleyan (11/3) in the ODAC semifinals ... also had six digs in the contest ... had at least 12 assists in the final seven matches of the season ... registered a season-best four services aces, to go along with a career-high nine digs in a 3-0 win over Guilford (11/1) in the ODAC quarterfinals.
2016: Appeared in 29 matches and 73 sets in her first season ... was second on the team with 239 assists ... totaled 39 digs, 13 blocks, 20 service aces, 34 kills and had a .355 hitting percentage in 76 total attempts ... recorded a season-high 35 assists and six digs in a 3-0 win over Hollins (10/25) ... had 23 assists, a season-high four service aces, two blocks and three kills against Lynchburg (10/14).
High School: Earned four letters in volleyball at Lee-Davis High School ... her team won the 2014 5A South conference championship ... was a captain her senior year ... named first team all-conference in 2014 and 2015, and was second team all-region in 2014 and 2015 ... a member of the National Honor Society.
Personal: Spent the summer in Lexington doing research with the engineering department ... an integrated engineering major.


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From the latest processing and memory to a performance-enhancing keyboard, the reliable V110 can meet your business needs today—and in the future. Affordably-priced, this light 15.6-inch laptop has a modern design and a hi-res screen that works great outdoors and indoors.
Enjoy the new standard for PC performance with Intel Core processors. Blazingly fast and feature-packed with built-in security, they are ready to take your productivity, creativity, and entertainment to the next level. What’s more, by enabling the exciting Windows 10 features, Intel Core processors empower you to unleash your imagination and explore the possibilities.
The V110 has the option of a 15.6-inch HD display—delivering bright, crisp visuals in 16:9 widescreen format. It also comes with antiglare technology which can help lower the risk of eye strain.
At less than 1-inch thin and weighing under 2.1 kg, the V110 is designed for you to work from anywhere. Plus, there's no gap between the keys on the keyboard. So the build-up of dust and dirt, which can degrade performance over time, is vastly reduced.
When it comes to IT security and data breaches, you can never be too careful. That's why the industry-certified Trusted Platform Module is integrated into the V110, enabling file encryption, password protection, boot protection, and more. The V110 also has a full range of ports, including super-fast USB 3.0, HDMI. With up to 500GB of storage space, there's ample room for all your documents, photos, and other digital files.
Designed for a premium multimedia experience, 2GB of AMD Radeon graphics delivers faster graphics performance when streaming movies, videos, and gaming. Keep up with today’s most demanding entertainment and productivity needs while delivering the longer battery life you need for work and play.


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This winter has been very mild so far, with our coldest weather starting this week and expected to last through the first week of January. As I've had an extra day off the last two weeks, I started to go through my gear and see if everything is up to par and ready for the weather. Yes, temperatures in the 30s classifies as cold in California. Deal with it!
My best rain coat, a Goretex Marmot jacket I've owned for the better part of 20, years just had thezipper pull break. This doesn't make the jacket unusable, just not very convenient to use right now. Marmot will service the jacket for free if there is a mechanical problem like the zipper or a snap fails (which they have done for me in the past). I will be sending the jacket in next summer to be fixed, since it is being used right now.
The two inexpensive emergency space blankets that were in my G.H.B. were both damaged by heavier, sharp-edged items shifting around and tearing both the packaging and blankets. This is my fault, as the blankets could have been placed inside a zip-lock bag for extra protection or placed in a side pocket and not allowed to migrate to the bottom of the bag.
The Tylenol, Advil and Triple Antibiotic were all out of date and from being kept in my truck, probably should have been replaced sooner. The band-aids in my kit were also damaged (by heat, I think) since the paper protective wrapper was separated on half the box.
All my other gear looks fine. Cans of chicken and tuna are in good shape, as are the jerky and energy bars. However, the bars were pretty smashed but the wrappers did not tear, so that was a plus.
The small bottle of Dr. Bronner's soap (kept in its own zip-lock bag) is intact. My Life Straw, Sawyer Mini filter and Katadyn Micropur MP1 tablets are fine. Socks, long sleeve polypropylene tee shirt, knit cap and rain hat are in good shape.
If you get an hour or so, take the time to inspect all your gear. You never know what you will find and what shape things are in until you look!
After telling everyone NOT to buy me anything, I recieved several gifts. People don't listen.
The Doan Magnesium is a familiar item but I had no idea what this shovel would look like. The U-Dig-It seems pretty cool, if a bit heavy at 6 ounces, but looks very sturdy. I do not have any other digging tools in my G.H.B. at the moment, so this is a needed addition. A test and evaluation will be coming in the near future.
I also received a $50 Amazon gift card, from my son and his wife. Who was really told not to get me anything, but whose kids ever listen to their parents?
Thank you all for the nice gifts, cards and Christmas Wishes. I hope the New Year sees you never needing your supplies, but always having them ready.
You take care of your car. You maintain it well. You expect it to take care of you. Then one day, when you can least afford it to fail, you put your key in the ignition and are rewarded with only a click. Your battery is flat. Oh, woe! What to do?
As with the rest of life, step one is Don't Panic. The rest of the solution depends on where you are and what help you have.
Jumper Cables: Way back when I talked about my Car Survival Kit, I mentioned carrying a good set of jumper cables in my truck. They are the most basic way to jump start a dead vehicle, assuming you have another car around to jump yours.
Be very careful to not touch the ends of the cables together while they're connected to any battery or car. They can cause a deadly electric shock.
There are two schools of thought with regard to positioning of jumper cables on the dead car side. Some folks advocate attaching the black lead to a bare metal body piece on the car. I, and various others, feel better results are obtained by hooking the black lead to the negative (marked -) terminal. Either one should work.
Next, connect the red/orange/light-colored lead to the positive (marked +) terminal of the battery.
Connect the same colored leads to the same marked terminals on the live car.
Start the engine on the live car, and allow it to run for a few minutes to give a bit of charge to the dead battery.
While the live car is still running and connected, start the dead car.
Disconnect the cables in the reverse order that you connected them.
Plug-In Chargers: If you're at home, or at least near a power outlet, a battery charger gives quick, sure starts, and doesn't require another vehicle. Simply plug it in to the wall, connect the leads to the battery just like jumper cables, and start your car. If you have time, you can allow the charger to actually charge the battery as well.
Jump Starters: Cables require another car and chargers require an outlet, but Jump Start Packs overcome both of those shortcomings. They are a self-contained battery pack with built-in cables and a charging port. The linked unit also contains a light and an air compressor, for inflating tires that may be a bit low. They aren't cheap, but they're invaluable when your battery goes flat in the middle of nowhere. I owned one for several years, and finally wore it out to the point where the battery would no longer hold a charge. They're expensive, but they're very worth it, the first time they save you in the middle of nowhere.
Keep yourself from getting stranded.
Erin Palette talks about fitness for preppers.
Miguel Gonzalez gives you his pick for the best Christmas movie of all time.
Barron B. explains when security updates aren't enough.
and Weer'd breaks down some audio anti-gun hate.
You can listen to the podcast here, and the show notes may be found here.
It's time for Episode 18 of The Gun Blog Variety Cast!
Adam and Sean host in their usual excellent style.
Erin Palette wants you to pay attention to priorities.
Miguel Gonzalez says "Read those Primary Sources!"
Barron B. talks about police using Stingray devices.
and Weer'd Beard offers an epilogue to his "Gun Death" series.
Check it out. Download, listen, and subscribe. And tell a friend!
Video #3! Hopefully (hopefully!) I have fixed the problem with the jerky video that plagued unboxing #2 and made it unwatchable by some.
Audio should also be substantially better, due to a lovely Christmas present of a quality microphone and stand from a dear, dear friend.
I am amused that I already had 3 of the items in this month's box, but I'm not at all upset; I had planned to get seconds of them anyway, and seeing them here reassures me that at least some of my choices are sound.
For those interested, the Piddly Stik may be found here. Through conversations with them on their Facebook page, I've been told that they will soon be posting videos on how to set up, and how to fish with, the P. Stik. I am looking forward to those, as it looks like a quality bit of handmade kit and not a cheap piece of plastic crap like a pocket fisherman, and I want to understand how to use it.
EDIT: Brook West has found a demonstration video of how to use the Piddly Stik. Thanks, Brook!
Enjoy my video, and please, leave comments! I'm always looking for ways to improve!
Pictures of the box's contents may be found here.
I have been asked to do a compare-and-contrast covering the various methods of water treatment available for preppers. Having spent 18 years operating a waste water treatment plant (the same technology as drinking water treatment, just with looser standards), I'm the closest we have to an expert on the subject so I'll give it a shot. This will be just an introduction to water treatment, with more details in future articles. This is a very important subject and I don't want to leave out information, but I also don't want to write a ten page article that nobody is going to finish reading.
Before getting into specific methods or brands of treatment I need to ask a few questions. All of these will come into play when you start looking at filters and other treatment methods.
How clean do you want/need your water? I have worked in labs that required water so pure it would dissolve copper tubing, and I spent many years discharging treated water into a major river that was dirtier than what I was putting into it. Some uses may not require water as clean as others, I'm pretty sure your dog (who drinks out of the toilet and stray mud puddles) doesn't need water treated to the same standards as you'd use for mixing baby formula. The EPA and WHO have established drinking water quality standards, technical data that I'll try to put into layman's language.
Also, not all raw water needs to be treated. Rain water and melted snow would be safe to drink in all cases, unless you're dealing with chemical or nuclear fallout. I grew up drinking water straight from a (fairly deep) well and have never had any issues with it. You can also develop a resistance or immunity to any local microbes that don't immediately kill you, but changing location will change the definition of “local” and you may run into problems until your body adjusts (Montezuma's Revenge).
What's in the water that you need to remove? Unless you have some idea of what you're trying to remove, you'll be lucky to pick the right method of getting it out of your water. A filter that will remove giardia cysts may not be good enough if you're dealing with chemical contaminates. Even without access to a microbiology/chemistry lab, you can do some research before a crisis to get an idea of what to expect. This is where things get personal, because there are too many possibilities for me to list them all. You'll need to think about where you may be when you need a water treatment system and do the research now.
How much water per day are you treating? The standard is one gallon per person per day for drinking and cooking purposes, but what about cleaning your body and clothes? Does your water system need to be cleaned periodically? For how many people are you prepping? Larger demands are going to require larger systems to clean your water or multiple smaller ones.
How long are you going to be treating your water? It's just common sense that a pocket filter might get you through a weekend in Mexico, but it isn't likely to last for several years' worth of daily use. Be wary of the claims made by manufacturers, unless you've thoroughly checked their system out. The filter that you pick for your BOB may be different than what you'll want to use once you get to your safe location, or you may only need to treat your water until the city gets their plants back online and the pipes flushed. Different needs for different plans.
Are you prepared for when your water purification system fails? Nothing lasts forever, so having a back-up plan is essential. It may be as simple as just drinking untreated water for a short period and dealing with the consequences (that weekend in Mexico), or it may be as complex as making another treatment system, but you need to be thinking of redundancy. A good idea for a fixed location would be to store your treated water and rotate through your stocks. That way, when the filter fails, you'll have a buffer supply to give you time to repair it or get another system online.
Are you aware of the indications for when your purification system fails? Do you have a way to test your system and the materials and skills to run those tests? One of the first filters I bought for hiking and camping came with a bottle of blue dye. The instructions were to add a few drops of the dye to some water and run it through the filter. If the dye passed through the filter it was a sign that it had failed. I'll get into specifics for each type of system as I cover them, but you need to be aware that there are simple ways to test water systems and you need to be able to run those tests.
Are you aware of how important maintenance and hygiene are going to be? Some filters require an occasional backwash to flush them clean while others require boiling or chemical cleaning and others just need to be replaced. Be prepared and learn your system before you need it. Make sure everyone who may need to use it is also trained.
Hygiene is an absolute must-have in any crisis situation. Sharing a water bottle with another person is also sharing their diseases. Unless you're comfortable sharing bodily fluids with someone, get them their own bottle. Keeping your water treatment equipment clean will avoid cross contamination. Think about it: if your hands are filthy, do you really want to touch anything that is going into your mouth? It would be wise to pad the numbers in your answer to number 3, above, to allow for some surplus water for hygiene purposes.
Those questions should give you something to think about, and maybe form a few questions of your own. I'll discuss the different methods of water treatment and some of the various types of equipment in the next few articles. If you have questions you would like to see answered here, feel free to leave comments and I will do what I can to find an answer.
This Christmas, I am working on a very short budget and have friends that don't need anything but deserve much. Four of them have expressed more than polite interest in planning for emergencies of and seem serious about it (by that I mean no 'Zombie Apocalypse' nonsense). I am trying to give them some ideas to use as a starting point; namely, directions to Blue Collar Prepping and some books that I have in my small prepping library.
In no way are these books the only ones in my library, the only books on the market or the best for everyone else; they are simply what I recommend for my friends and their needs.
I am not writing a book review or summary, but rather why I chose these titles.
Les Stroud is the host of Survivorman, the best outdoor adventure show on television (in my opinion). His book Survive! uses the skills and techniques learned from his many personal trips into the wilderness,as well as those seen on his television show. The majority of the book is focused on wilderness survival in any climate, in any part of the world, so this would be a good choice for travelers or people not living in the U.S. or North America.
This book is going to friends that hike and camp now that their kids are older.
Arthur T. Bradley has written a book that seriously addresses common emergencies faced by modern societies: Natural, Pandemic, Man-Made, War/Terrorism/Crime, Personal, etc.
The Disaster Preparedness Handbook addresses these topics in a very thorough way, with chapter summaries, checklists, suggested reading lists and diagrams of items that can be made or built. It is written in an easy-to-read style, without being so simple as to be boring to experienced preppers or too intense for those just starting. While most of the book covers 'bugging in' and urban/suburban plans, there are chapters on planning for 'bugging out' as well.
This book is going to friends that have several family members living close by.
Aton Edwards has collected a massive amount of information on survival techniques and sources of information! From emergency heating to improvised hydroponics, this book could be a one-stop shop for the novice to those already well on the way to self-sufficiency. Preparedness Now! has topics ranging from biological hazards, fire, and personal safety, to the more common subjects of food and water storage or bug-out plans. Included in the back of the book are several pages of notes, blank planner pages, an amazing bibliography and a very detailed set of checklists, sourced and linked back to the chapters where the items were first mentioned.
This book is a gift for one of my OCD friends that makes lists for everything.
I hope this has given you food for thought and ideas for last minute gifts for the Holiday season!
Fire is a valuable thing, but sometimes, traditional fires just are not possible. Today, we'll take a look at a couple non-traditional alternatives. Both of them burn non-standard fuel, and are based on the principle of a candle, basically using a natural-fiber wick to carry fuel to the flame. Both can run almost* any liquid fuel that is thin enough to be carried by the wick.
*Warning: Do not use gasoline. It burns too hot and fast and can cause injuries.
Calling this a stove is a bit inaccurate; while it can be used to heat things, there are far too many variables to use it to cook reliably . It does, however, make a dandy reusable candle, and provides a fair bit of heat for its size.
To make a hobo stove, you need a tuna fish can (or similar; any can that is short and wide should do nicely.) and its lid. You'll also need some kind of wick material made of natural fiber. Jute twine, cotton cord, thin strips of cloth; all work well.
Completely remove the lid and rinse the can.
Make a hole or holes in the lid, just large enough to fit your wicks. More wicks mean more flame, but also dramatically increase fuel consumption. You can use a power drill and a small bit for this, but a hammer and nail also works wonderfully.
Bend the sides of the lid down slightly, just enough to give you room for fuel underneath it. 1/4" is plenty.
Pull your wicks through the holes. Leave 3/4" or so on the top side of the lid. Trim the wicks so there are a couple inches below the lid as well.
Insert the lid in the can and add fuel.
Any number of light, flammable liquids will work. Light oils (olive, peanut, etc.) and high-proof alcohols burn quite nicely. The fuel you use will determine how hot and fast your candle burns. Allow the wicks time to soak up fuel before you light them.
We used these when I was in Boy Scouts. All that you need to make them is a roll of toilet paper, two #10 coffee cans, and fuel.
Stand the toilet paper roll on end in the bottom of the coffee can.
When the toilet paper has had a chance to soak up fuel, simply light the top of the roll. It will burn with a flame as tall and hot as a good campfire, so don't light it anyplace you wouldn't light a normal fire.
Putting this fire out is where the second coffee can comes in. Stack the second can on top of the fire, and it will quickly starve for air and put itself out. After the cans have cooled, you can put a lid on top of your fire can, leaving it assembled and ready for use again.
Both of these fire sources work great when there is very little wood, or when it's wet or snowy. There's no need to be cold and dark out there!
We've discussed the planning stages of building the Oven.
We've discussed building the Firebox of the Oven.
We've discussed building the Cob Dome of the Oven.
In today's article, I'm going to briefly go over a few things that we learned along the way while building the oven, and where we'll go from here when we have the time and resources to start planning and building the Mark II Oven.
Frankly, this is something that all preppers should take note of, regardless of what they're trying to be prepared for. There is a huge gulf of difference between Theoretical Knowledge and Practical Knowledge.
Nothing shows this quite as thoroughly as taking a group of people who have practical knowledge in a diverse set of areas, but only theoretical knowledge in the area you need, and asking them to collectively tackle a practical project.
I joke that my main "talent" actually lies in the area of being able to surround myself with extremely talented and knowledgeable people. This project proved to me that I wasn't joking.
One of the first things that I realized was that we should have spent a bit more time considering our placement. While we built the oven in a location that's very convenient to the industrial kitchen on-site, the location we chose is such that the person (or people) manning the oven are fairly removed from the majority of activity taking place out at Knight's Rest Retreat. This has both advantages and its disadvantages.
One advantage is that the cooks manning the oven don't have the opportunity to get distracted by other things going on at Knight's Rest. The disadvantage is that the cooks can easily get bored, and therefore become unwilling to man the oven.
Another issue that I realized could be a problem with our oven is its location in relation to the resources needed to build it. We were fortunate that we had a functional backhoe to use for bringing clay from our clay bank to our location, and our water source was a spigot with a convenient hose to drag closer to where we were building.
Remember that your resources will have to be hauled to your chosen location, so pick a spot where you're not going to wear yourself out before you ever actually start building. The less hauling of resources you have to do, the less energy you're expending. Less energy used = less need to rest and refuel later.
Just how flat is the piece of dirt where you're planning to construct your oven? Have you got a nice, level spot that just happens to have a concrete pad already in place?
If you have a concrete pad available to work on, use it! If you don't, then either build directly on the ground, or make sure you build a platform that is going to be both stable and level, without the possibility of it sinking or caving in.
We've run into difficulties with the long-term viability of the Mark I simply because the earth platform we built for its placement has shifted quite a bit, and some areas have compacted much more than others. There have been a few minor earthquakes (something we never used to experience in Oklahoma!) that have caused portions of the packed earth platform to no longer be completely level.
If you're building directly on the ground, bedrock would be a great choice. At the very least, look for an area that's not going to be making its way out from under what you're building, and make certain it's well packed and solid.
Temperature control has been something of an issue. We still haven't gotten it completely right yet, but we're working on that!
Have a thermometer handy that can withstand the anticipated temperatures inside your oven, and use it as you do your progressive firings to cure out the cob dome. This will give you a much more accurate idea of what size fire you're going to need to achieve specific temperatures.
Having a good in-oven or in-grill thermometer handy during cooking uses will also help you maintain your fire, and know exactly what temperatures your oven space is reaching during the cooking process for specific dishes.
Adjusting recipes is much easier when you actually know what internal temperature your oven happens to achieve.
Eventually - probably in late spring - we will get started on the Mark II Oven build. This will address problems that have arisen with the Mark I either during construction, or since it was finished.
We've chosen a spot not far from where our current Mark I Oven happens to reside, but situated closer to where our Main Hall is being built. This will put its placement more centrally located, which should help keep the boredom factor down.
The change in location will also cut down on the amount of foot work to go between the oven and the Feasting Hall while carrying hot food straight out of the oven, like fresh bread.
We will be taking the time to do a few things to the location chosen for the Mark II prior to starting on the actual building. First, we'll be leveling and grading the area. Once it's leveled and graded, we'll be pouring a single concrete slab of the proper size to accommodate our Mark II, and allowing the poured concrete to cure for several days.
Another major difference between the Mark I and the Mark II will be use the exclusive use of refractory cement, rated for extremely high temperatures, as mortaring for our firebox. We used regular cement mortar on the firebox in the Mark I, and it was a mistake; we've had a lot of cracking and expansion due to the high temperatures in the firebox, and it has caused issues with the stability of the entire structure.
We will also likely have a much longer cure time in firing the cob dome on the Mark II, because we feel like it got slightly rushed for the Mark I.
All in all, it's been both educational and fun, and I'm looking forward to working on the Mark II and other ongoing projects out at Knight's Rest Retreat.
Erin Palette talks about prepping for pet owners.
Nicki Kenyon explores foreign aid to Israel.
Special Guest Ben Berry from The Triangle Tactical Podcast tells us why we should all be shooting competition.
Barron B. tells us about future developments in more secure credit cards.
Weer'd rounds out his "Gun Death" series with the very serious subject of suicide.
Don't miss the show. Download, listen, and subscribe. And make sure to tell your friends!
In Part 1, I talked about what's in the sleeping bag compartment of my bug-out bag. For today's post I'm going to talk about what I have on the outside.
You can see the Klymit Static V air pad, mentioned in last week's post, on the left of the sleeping bag compartment and the Adventure Medical Thermolite Bivvy on the right. Just above the Klymit is a Cold Steel Kukri Machete which I use as a universal chopping & hacking tool (and for $20, one of the best blades I've ever owned -- HIGHLY recommended). In the center is a UVPaqLite UVO Necklace, which I have tied around a fastener on the back so I can easily find my pack in the dark. If necessary, I can remove it to mark something else, like a campsite or a family member.
I've also added some compression straps to keep everything tight so that the center of gravity is closer to my spine.
a Condor MOLLE pouch, filled with things I might need to access quickly without taking off my pack.
Two S-biners (in blue) that secure the "lifting straps", for want of a better term -- basically straps that attach to the top of the frame so that it's easier to stand up with the pack by pulling on them in my hands -- to the plastic D-rings on the shoulder straps. That way, I don't have to go fishing for the straps when I want to stand up, and extra carabiners are always useful.
1) a Hot Shot signal mirror with whistle.
2) a Coughlan's compass with light-up face. It's a fairly cheap compass, but I have a nicer one inside the bag, and this one self-illuminates.
3) two rolls of camper's toilet tissue, for use in the traditional manner, or as kleenex in case I need to blow my nose (and given my allergies, I need to do that a lot.) The third roll, along with the dispenser, is inside my Get Home Bag.
1) a multi-tool from Duluth Trading Company in a cordura pouch the same color and texture as the Condor fabric.
2) a tube of Blistex medicated lip balm/sunscreen.
3) a Sawyer Mini Water Filter (thanks for the Thankmas Present, John Kochan!) with 16-ounce collapsible drinking pouch. Since the filter and the straw are large, I have them outside the pocket and are held in place by the cords that tighten up the gadget pouch.
Left: Attached to a carabiner is a "Bug Out Band": a nifty USB drive integrated into a rubberized slap bracelet that came in the October Apocabox. I use it to store important documents (see my "Scan Your Stuff" post ) and being attached to my pack makes it easy for me to take it off when info needs to be updated.
The sheath of the Kukri machete is held in place by two Nite Ize Figure 9 carabiners hooked over a strap, with the 'biner part running through the sheath's belt loop.
Right: The other side, just for completeness' sake. The odd bits of green are lengths of electrical tape, used to tie down lengths of errant strap.
Next week: What's in the pockets?
To recap the idea behind the Rock Ridge series, not everyone is going to be able to go back to living off of the land after a major catastrophe. There will be those who are not suited to raising their own food, but will have other skills that they can use to make a living. I am using the fictional town of Rock Ridge (ca. 1870) as an example of the skills and services that may be in demand after TSHTF. It doesn't have to be “Mad Max in Thunderdome”; people lived comfortably in small towns and villages for centuries before the invention of electric lighting and automobiles.
First things first: any time you see the word “mill”, you're looking at a facility that takes in a raw material and produces a marketable product, with windmills being the sole exception that proves the rule. Wood (or saw) mills take in logs and put out lumber; cotton mills take raw cotton and turn it into thread; a grain mill will take grain and turn it into flour or meal suitable for use as a cooking ingredient.
If you have a reliable source of energy and grain, you might be able to make a living with a grain mill. Grain mills are simply large versions of the basic stone utensils that have been used to make flour out of grain for as long as humans have been growing grain.
The most basic grain mill is a bowl-shaped stone (called a “mortar”) and a smaller rounded stone that fits inside the bowl (known as a “pestle”). Grain is placed in the mortar and the pestle is either rolled over it with downward pressure or pounded down on the grain to break it up into tiny pieces. Roughly ground grain is called meal, and finely ground grain is called flour.
Hand mills have evolved into steel and plastic kitchen appliances that vary in quality and price. The general rule that “you get what you pay for” holds true for hand mills, so get the best that you can afford. Unless you have a bullet-proof source of electricity, avoid motorized mills that don't also have a manual method of operation.
Grinders like this have been used for decades to mix and grind meats, but if you get the right plates for it you can grind grain. Avoid the cheap ones since they are generally of very poor fit and finish.
While a single person can grind enough grain into flour to keep their family in bread, it is time consuming and not a very efficient use of time. A centralized grain mill will tap into a local source of power and provide the service of producing flour (or meal) for its customers in return for a percentage of the grain. The miller's percentage would be sold or traded to people who didn't grow grain, and provided a source of income for the miller.
A small commercial mill, like those found in villages, was usually made of two discs of stone (often pieces of stone held inside a metal ring). They were placed face to face and the grain was introduced through the center hole of the top stone. The grain was turned into flour as it worked its way out toward the the rim.
A moderately-sized mill, suitable for a small town, would consist of two round stones, one placed flat and the other on edge riding on the top of it. Grain would be added to the top of the base stone as the wheel stone rolls around on top of it and the grain ground between the two.
Power sources for this size of mill would be a water wheel set on a stream or a wind mill with large sails. High torque, low speed power that can be harnessed with the use of mainly wooden gears and shafts is a good fit for this kind of mill.
A large mill, producing flour for a large bakery or a large town, would likely consist of a series of smaller mills in series, with them set to grind the grain into progressively smaller pieces. Larger mills are/were powered by steam engines, electric motors, or some form of internal combustion engine.
Stone grinding wears down the grinders slowly, leaving sand or grit in the flour. This is not normally hazardous to the health of the consumers, but it can lead to increased wear on their teeth. Steel rollers last a lot longer and are easier to replace with modern infrastructure.
Since steel wears slower than stone, it is easier to set and maintain the desired degree of grind you want.
Steel is less porous than stone, so it is easier to keep clean and prevent contamination of new flour from spoiled remnants of previous grindings.
Steel rollers can be run at higher speeds than stone mills, increasing the output for a given size of mill.
Steel rollers generally weigh less than stone ones, so starting and stopping the machinery is easier.
They can be made of locally available materials.
Stone rollers are not as likely to create sparks as metal ones. Dust explosions are a major hazard of any grain handling operation, so sparks are to be avoided as much as possible .
The weight of stone rollers provides enough pressure without requiring tensioners.
Running at a slower speed allows for the use of simpler bearings and shafts, often made of wood instead of metal. Lower speeds also mean less heat, which can damage the grain or contribute to dust explosions.
The mass of stone rollers provides inertia to the operation which will smooth out minor variations in the power source. This is helpful when using wind or some other form of variable power.
Setting up a grain mill is a time-consuming process that will require a source of power, a good supply of materials, a source of grain, storage for grain and flour, and a customer base. Operating it will require a low level of daily supervision, a moderate amount of maintenance, and plenty of customer interaction.
A good miller will work with his customers as much as his machinery, and his reputation can make or break his business. Bookkeeping and an accurate set of scales will help keep both the customers and the miller honest, so plan for them as well.
The holiday season can be a fun time of year to gather with friends and family to share happy times and events, but it can also be a time of stress. Not having enough food on your table, let alone enough money to pay the bills, is an extra stressor that many people have this time of year. While I do not have that problem, many in our communities do, and there is a way that anyone can help: Donate to your local Food Bank!
So by sorting my stored goods with the oldest marked items going out first, I can keep an eye on what is not being used quickly, and then donate the excess to the Food Bank if needed. Not only can I help those less fortunate than myself, I also keep fresh items in my reserve!
These were all dated 'Best By' the middle or late 2015, but it is the perfect time to move some of these out, as I am not using them very quickly all by myself.
Even if you don't have food that is expiring soon or you have long duration stores, this is a good time to consider buying an extra can or two and dropping them into the donation barrels most supermarkets have on display. You will be helping others and also helping yourself.
28% of food distributed is for children under 18. 8% are under the age of 5.
Approximately 18% is for people over 65.
The average family income of recipients is $15,000 per year.
Matches are the gold standard of fire starting: they're cheap, readily available, and reliable, and things that are designed to be lit are usually designed to be lit with matches.
Waterproof cases are the most basic starting point of protecting your matches. A waterproof case will keep your matches together and protected from water and damage, and most of them have a rough surface for striking your match.
If you're equipped to safely melt paraffin wax, it makes a dandy waterproof coating on any number of things, including matches. Simply melt the wax and dip your match heads into it, then let the wax cool and harden. When you're ready to use them, simply scrape the wax off with your fingernail, and strike as normal.
Melting wax has its hazards, though; and is not something to be undertaken lightly: hot wax can burn skin, and can also cause a very serious fire. Don't try it if you're unprepared and don't have the proper gear.
Turpentine is a wonderful, very safe method of waterproofing matches, but it must be renewed about once a year. Simply pour an inch or so of turpentine into the bottom of a small glass (one you don't care for, since you won't want to drink from it after), and stand several matches head-down in the turpentine for five minutes. Then, lay them out on a paper towel or piece of newspaper to dry for about half an hour. Your matches are then ready to go; just strike them as you otherwise would.
Probably my favorite method of waterproofing matches (and sealing various other things) is clear nail polish. It doesn't necessarily have to be clear, but Grandma used clear nail polish for all manner of things, and who am I to argue with Grandma?
Simply open your bottle of nail polish, and dip your match heads into the nail polish. Wipe any excess against the bottle rim, and let your matches dry, with the head not touching anything. As with turpentine, they'll strike as-is. However, nail polish dries hard and durable, and will provide a little extra protection for your matches.
Sealed Pouches: This page has a wonderful guide to sealing your matches in simple waterproof packets. Other things like tinder can also be sealed in this manner, and be safe and ready when you need to crack them open and use them.
Last week, I talked about the work I and others did to make the Firebox portion of our Earth Oven out at Knight's Rest Retreat. Today, I'm going to further expound on that in the visual, and show you what it was like building the baking dome portion, which is the actual cooking area of the oven.
2 Muffins go in, but only 1 Scone emerges victorious!
Anyway, now that I've gotten the cheese outta my system (well, mostly anyway - there are a couple of quiches still awaiting trial runs in the oven to do some more timing/temp tests!), on to the meat (roasted) of this article.
In order to get our dome built on top of the firebox, the first thing we had to do was figure out how to get the actual dome shape built. We set the brick work for our chimney while we were making the final decision, and let our bricklayer do his magic while the rest of us debated about method.
We decided it would be easiest to build up layers of our cob over a positive mold of shaped dirt, which could then be dug out once the cob was dry and solidly stable.
Once we'd decided how we wanted to proceed, we built a simple wooden form in the shape and size of our intended door and set it in place. Then we started building our dome mold at that point, packing the dirt in well and making certain it was absolutely level where we were going to be putting the brick arch support of our entry door.
Once we had our door frame mold in place to use as a guide, our bricklayer went to work again, setting our brick archway in place. This was a much shorter process than laying the bricks for the firebox, but was still labor intensive enough that I was glad I wasn't the one having to do the actual work.
After he'd placed all the bricks into the archway except our keystone (the one at the very top of the arch), things started getting mortared into place. The keystone went in last, and then the mortar was allowed to set while we all took a short break.
After the break, we moved on to rearranging the excess dirt so that our dome mold would be uniform in height and properly align with the door. It was a few hours of work, which included turning the top layers into a thick muddy slurry so that it could be properly smoothed out.
When we finally got everything smoothed and evened out, it was obvious this oven was going to be even larger than we'd originally anticipated. The height of the dome had been lowered, but the overall surface area to cook in was going to be much larger than was first planned.
We needed a means of keeping the cob mix from sticking to the positive mold while the dome was being formed. Our solution was simple: newspapers that were going to be recycled anyway were pulled out and put to use.
A double layer of newspaper was placed over the entire dome (except for the doorway arch), and then a thin layer of straight mud was put in place as the bottom layer of what would become the interior of the dome.
The kids, of course, were more than eager to "help play in the mud"
A helper (right) and I (left) applying the initial mud coat.
Once that was finished, it was time to start mixing our cob to form the dome. Cob has traditionally been a mix of clay, sand, and straw.
Think of it as a sort of rudimentary cross between the basic material for bricks, and a primitive cement, all rolled into one.
Yep, you guessed it. Trevor's kids wanted a chance to play in the mud for that part too! Thankfully it was still pretty warm outside in late September and early October here in Oklahoma, so hosing them off at the end of each day wasn't an issue!
at least we weren't bad enough to need actual hosing down before going in the house to clean up!
Yes, building the dome of the mold took longer than expected, and it was well past twilight by the time we'd finished putting the layer of straight mud over our newspaper barrier and adding the first layer of cob.
Then we needed to allow some time for that layer of cob to set before we added another, but that would require working in the dark.
We called a break for the evening to allow things to start drying, and met again a couple of days later to start slathering on further layers of cob.
As I mentioned a moment ago, traditionally cob is formulated from a mix of clay, sand, and straw. We used a ratio of 70% clay from the high quality clay banks on the property (there are advantages to having a stream running through the middle of your acreage!), 20% sand from the one of the sand banks of the same stream, and 10% high quality grout mix that we happened to have on hand.
We mixed up our mud - that clay/sand/grout mix - in a small bucket until it was the consistency we desired. We originally intended to mix our mud completely by hand, but that proved to be far too labor intensive when we considered Cordless Power Drills and Drywall Mixers!
Once our mud was mixed by one of the guys, he would bring it over to our big mixing bucket - a repurposed and somewhat banged up small feeding trough. The mud would be dumped from its small mix bucket into our larger mix bucket, and we would then add a 50% straw content to add support and help hold the structure of the cob over the long term. This portion was done completely by hand, as we didn't want the straw tangling itself around the mixer bit - and we only had one mixer bit available for use.
This also proved advantages in other ways. Since our Mud Guy could only mix up so much on his end at any one time, we had the lag between mud deliveries to mix in straw, and place the now ready cob onto whichever portion of the dome we were currently concentrating on for that layer.
After getting the initial 2 layers of cob in place, the thought crossed several minds simultaneously that adding some extra internal support structure might be a Good Thing over the long term. To this end, we decided to place a single layer of chicken wire between the cob already in place and what would be going in on top of this.
At this point, we had our positive mold in place, our door arch built, a thin layer of mud without cob mix, 1 thin layer and 2 thick layers of cob, then a layer of chicken wire, and 2 more thick layers of cob over the wire support structure.
And it was back to work placing thick layers of cob mixture over the entire dome.
At this point it was decided to pay a bit of extra attention to the area where the dome was being built up around the base of the chimney. We wanted to make certain we had a good seal between the cob and the brick, so that we wouldn't have to cope with excessive heat loss or unexpected drafts of air through the cooking chamber.
As a group, we spent 6 days of laying in a couple of layers of cob each day, and allowing for a day or two of drying time between sessions. We wanted to give each successive set of layers time to dry somewhat, independently of the whole, so that we could locate and repair cracks without them becoming deep fissures that ran through the whole thickness of our dome structure.
Our final day on the project to build the dome itself, there were only 3 of us out there getting muddy - Jen (the owner of Knight's Rest) myself, and my buddy Vanessa. It's mid-October, and you can see from the photos that it was still warm enough for shorts and t-shirts!
Laying the final layer of cob turned out to be the most time consuming of all the cob layers. We wanted to make certain it was smooth, uniform, and was visually appealing. A lot of smoothing, both by hand and with small bricklayer's hand tools later, and we finally had things looking the way we wanted them to!
Our oven build was complete... almost. We still needed to give it a week to dry out completely. Then we had to dig out the dirt used to form the positive mold for the dome. And build several fires, each one successively hotter and more intense than the last, in the cooking chamber itself to cure out the cob completely and to burn off the remains of the newspaper we used to keep the mold and dome separate.
We're still doing test runs in the Oven, to see how large a fire we need for various temperatures, and how we need to adjust recipes for timing so we don't end up with burnt or undercooked foods. While under-cooking can be salvaged easily enough by simply putting our cooking vessel back into the Dome for a bit longer, burnt bottoms aren't so easily fixed.
Next week, I'll discuss some of the difficulties, tips, and tricks that we learned during this build, our plans for the Oven Mark II, and extra considerations to be taken into account for different areas. Bon appetit!


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This page provides a list of Charlton City Social Security office locations in Massachusetts. Select one of the office locations below to get the Social Security office hours, phone number and driving directions. They can help you with questions or issues with your retirement benefits and schedule an appointment, if required.
We have searched our system and could not find a SSA office in Charlton City. However, we did search for all nearby office locations within 40 miles. We provide the distance for each Social Security office location found below to help assist you in finding a nearby location.
Coming prepared is essential. Nobody wants to make a trip and wait in line just to have to reschedule! Remember that if you're unsure as to what you'll need to bring to your appointment, call your Social Security Office in Charlton City in advance to double-check!


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One of the most common reasons people get into trouble with the IRS is when they have an unqualified individual prepare their tax returns. Tax law is really complicated, and it changes every year. Even if the tax law changes don’t affect you, you could be in the same boat as Elaine – the returns that were perfectly adequate when she was a teenager with a single job just don’t cut the mustard now that she’s a homeowner who needs to itemize. It’s easy to make a mistake if you’re not a professional tax preparer.
It can come as a shock when you discover that the person you trusted to do your income taxes didn’t do a great job. You may feel anger, resentment, stress, and fear. After all, the IRS has a great deal of power: they can audit you, levy your bank accounts, and impose significant penalties – and you might not even know what was wrong in the first place.
If you’ve gotten notices from the IRS about errors in your tax return – or if you trusted someone to file tax returns or pay payroll taxes on your behalf and they failed to do so – you need the best tax help available right away. The IRS isn’t going to go after the person who prepared your return: they’re going to go after you. Prepare yourself and protect your interest by working with a team of tax professionals who can solve your problems fast!


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When asked to share a foundational experience I had in my college career, Blue Chip Leadership Experience is one of the first things I share. Being involved in Blue Chip was not only an incredible experience during my college career but played an instrumental role in who I am as a professional.
Prior to joining Leadership Programs in Student Engagement & Career Development, I spent eight years with THINK TANK as a professional staff member. There are three key lessons I learned while in Blue Chip that shaped my experience at THINK TANK and continues to guide me as a Coordinator with Leadership Programs: Leadership is more than just leading a group, team work makes the dream work, and you get what you give.
Leadership is more than just a leading a group. I think a common misconception about leadership is that leadership only occurs if you are the president of a club or a supervisor. One of the earliest pieces of knowledge I gained from Blue Chip quickly demystified this. Through activities and discussions, Blue Chip showed us that leadership does not mean being in charge. Leadership is active engagement in the organization/team/experience/job. Leadership is your actions. As a professional staff member, this lesson has been important as I interact with co-workers and campus partners. I don’t have to be the one leading the meeting, but I can set a strong example. I can help move the group forward by the actions and example I take within the team.
This first lesson really leads well into the second lesson: Team work makes the dream work. Throughout my experience with Blue Chip, the opportunities where I gained the most and enjoyed the most were the opportunities when I had to work as a team. The same has been true in my professional career. These experiences gave me the greatest opportunities for learning. I developed and strengthen skills in communication, team building, listening, and problem solving.
As a professional you are likely to be in an office with others—even if your day-to-day work is individual in nature. Being able to interact, work with, and build relationships with others in the office and the organization is important. It makes the work more manageable and enjoyable! Throughout my professional career working with others on projects, presentations, planning, and training has been at the core of the work I do. Blue Chip provided the space to learn how to work with others in a collaborative manner.
The final lesson I learned from Blue Chip I heard early on but really came to appreciate with time. You get what you give. These words echoed in my mind throughout my college career. These words guided me to make sure that I wasn’t just signed up to be a member in a club or organization but that I was actively engaging in the experience. It encouraged me to reflect on moments and ask myself, “Why didn’t I enjoy that experience? Did I give all that I could?” I continue use those words to guide my experience as a professional. It puts the responsibility on me. What can I do to continue growing as a professional? Am I giving it my all?
Curious about Blue Chip Leadership Experience? There are three different programs: First Year Experience, Tranfer Experience and Online Experience.

industry_corpus2: Subject Education


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Correct plug and polarity for your 1SQ power input plug and to build custom charge cords for the 1SQ quad copter battery packs. May be used on other equipment.
Replacement canopy for Heli-Max 1SQ.
Replacement footpads for Heli-Max 1SQ.
Heli-Max 1SQ Motor and Boom for Right Front or Left Rear Clockwise Prop Rotation.
Heli-Max 1SQ Motor and Boom for Left Front or Right Rear Counter-Clockwise Prop Rotation.
Center pod and battery holder for 1SQ Quad Copter.
Plug and Play light set for your micro quad. Red green and two white lites custom made to fit micro quads like the 1SQ. Using existing on board battery. Light weight.

industry_corpus2: Aerospace


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The EforArt Formation was established by GKP.HU - the guidance of Ali Saghati. Since the earliest days the mission of the Formation has been to focus on and professionally represent progressive art in Europe and abroad.
The EforArt is managing young artists who are progressive and are not afraid to experiment in different media.
The EforArt’s pursuit is based on a circle of collectors, who follow the international contemporary art tendencies and trends, and are open to new, forward thinking innovations as well as to non-traditional media.
Under Ali Saghatis care the EforArt has extended its portfolio with new young artists, and among their intentions is to achieve a firm presence in the international art scene.
He believe that EforArt can play an important role in representing contemporary art internationally, and he is ambitious to do his share the best he can.
Furthermore the EforArt staff finds the endeavors to re-new the international fine-art scene a significant matter. They support and or initiate projects that aim to re-consider the conventional routine of the art world and to improve the position of contemporary art in the European culture.


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Methods in Organic Synthesis was discontinued in 2014 and replaced by Synthetic Reaction Updates. The historical content of Methods in Organic Synthesis is available to Synthetic Reaction Updates subscribers.
Each monthly issue of Methods in Organic Synthesis contained around 200 graphical abstracts selected from key journals in the field, covering all areas of synthetic chemistry including new reactions and reagents, asymmetric synthesis, and enzymatic transformations. The online database is fully searchable and indexed by reaction type, reactant, product, reagent, journal and author.
Each record provides a redrawn reaction scheme with full bibliographic information for the original article. There are also direct links to the publisher’s website where the full text of the article can be found. Bibliographic information can be imported into citation management programs, and the reaction schemes downloaded.
Please note that the email address formerly used for Methods in Organic Synthesis (mos@rsc.org) is no longer active and is not monitored. Instead, please feel free to contact the Synthetic Reaction Updates team at sru@rsc.org with any questions or comments.